Getting Started Peppers are heat-loving plants that need a long season to grow from seed to fruit. In all but the most tropical U.S. climate zones, it's necessary to give them a head start by starting the seeds inside in very warm conditions and planting vigorous seedlings outside only when the weather has warmed up. The plants require time to grow and ripen their fruit before the days shorten and weather cools at summer's end. Plan to start germinating your seeds about 6 weeks before the last frost date in your area so they'll be ready to plant about 2 weeks after that date. Ask your local Co-op Extension Service or an experienced local gardener, if you aren't sure when that date is. The goal is to have sturdy seedlings ready to plant into the garden at the time when spring weather is warm and settled and night temperatures are consistently in the 50 ?F. range.Sowing the Seeds It's important to use a good, light seed starting mixture for your plants, rather than the ordinary garden soil, which likely contains fungus organisms. Planting containers or flats need to be at least three inches deep for roots to grow, and have small holes for drainage so those roots won't rot. Add water to soil mix and mix well; it should be as moist as a wrung-out sponge before you put it into your containers. Fill containers close to the top with evenly premoistened soil mix, then tap the container to settle the mix. Write the variety names and sowing date with indelible markers on small labels and place in containers. Make seed furrows about 1/4 inch deep and drop in the individual pepper seeds about an inch apart. Cover with about 1/4 inch of soil mix and firm gently. To settle them in, water the seeds with a spray bottle or a very gentle spray nozzle. Your pepper seeds need warmth, 80-85 ?F., to begin the germination (sprouting) process. Light is not critical at this stage, but bottom heat or a warm location is. If you are using an electric seed propagation mat, just plug it in and put the seed containers on it. If not, put containers on top of the water heater or refrigerator; anywhere they'll have gentle steady warmth. Keep seed flats or containers moist but not soggy, and expect germination within 10 days of sowing. Check at least once every day for signs of emergence. Just as soon as the seeds have begun to sprout and show above the soil line, the baby seedlings require bright light. Fluorescent lights are a good way to provide light for seedlings; use lights designed for this purpose, or hang shop lights from chains. Adjust so the lights are an inch or two above the tops of plants. Move the lights up as seedlings grow, keeping them just 2 or 3 inches above the tops of the plants. If using a sunny windowsill, rotate plants daily and protect them at night, when windowsill temperatures can plummet. Give seedlings lots of light--16 hours a day is fine. Plants that don't have enough light will grow up weak and pale, with long stems leaning toward the light. Seedlings can be grown on at temperatures somewhat lower than those for germination (70 to 80 ?). When your seedlings have at least 2 sets of leaves, let the top half-inch or so of soil dry out between waterings. Check daily by putting your index finger into the soil--actually using this finger test to see how moist soil is works best; it's hard to tell from just looking, even for experienced gardeners. Potting Up Your Pepper Seedlings When seedlings have several sets of leaves, you need to move or "prick out" seedlings to a deeper flat or individual 4-inch pots. First, fill the new containers with moistened soil mix. Lift the tiny plants carefully with the help of a large fork or sharp pencil, pushing all the way to the bottom of the container to get all of the roots; the less they are disturbed, the better. Lower each plant into a hole you've made and plant it deeper in its new home. Peppers (unlike most other plants) will make new roots along their buried stems, so if your seedlings are leggy, you can transplant them so that their stems are covered by the soil up to the base of the topmost cluster of leaves. Gently firm the soil around the transplants and water carefully. About a week after pricking out, start feeding the plants each week with a good all-purpose liquid fertilizer, diluted half-strength. Planting into the GardenAfter about a month, the pepper seedlings will begin to crowd each other and the weather should have warmed up enough to plant them outside. (Remember you will gain nothing by planting them out before night temperatures remain above 50 ?. If spring stays chilly, transplanting them into larger pots is a good idea if you have room to keep them well-lighted and warm.) Plant out only the stockiest plants with healthy, well-developed root systems. "Harden off" your seedlings over 4 to 6 days to get them used to outdoor conditions. Do this by putting them out in a protected shady spot for first a half day, then a full day, and then move them gradually into full sun. Try to transplant seedlings on an overcast day or in the late afternoon to minimize stress. Pick a sunny spot with well-drained soil that has been amended with ample organic matter. Set tomato plants 3 feet apart and several inches deeper in the soil than they were in the container. Plants will form roots along the buried stem. Firm soil around the plants and water thoroughly but gently. Plan to stake your peppers, as most modern varieties have a branching habit and heavy fruit sets that will need support. Pepper plants are heavy feeders and should be fertilized regularly--at least once a month with good all-purpose plant food or a combination of fish emulsion and liquid kelp. They will respond well to a thick layer of mulch (compost, dried manure, or other organic material) applied when they are five or six inches tall. Weed and water consistently for best crops. Harvest when fruits are large, glossy, and thick-walled, and/or wait for the mature ripe stage when color changes from green and flavor is sweet and full. Ripe colored peppers are also the most nutritious and best for roasting and eating out of hand. When harvesting, always cut, rather than pull, peppers from the plant. Keep the ripe peppers picked, to encourage more to ripen.