HOW PLANTS ARE SHIPPED
The size of the plants we ship has been selected to reduce the shock of transplanting. For some, this means a large, bareroot crown. Others cannot travel bareroot or transplant best if grown in containers. We ship these perennials and annuals in 1 pint pots, except as noted. We must point out that many perennials will not bloom the first year after planting, but will the following year, amply rewarding your patience. We ship bulbs as dormant, bare bulbs, sometimes with some wood shavings or moss. Shrubs, Roses, vines, and other woody plants may be shipped bareroot or in pots. The size of the pot is noted in the quick facts for each item.
WHEN WE SHIP
We ship our bulbs and plants at the right time for planting in your area, except as noted, with orders dispatched on a first-come, first-served basis by climate zone. Estimated dates for shipping are indicated in the Shipping Details box for each item. Please refer to the Shipping Details box to determine the earliest shipping time. Unless you specify otherwise, fertilizers, tools, and other non-plant items are shipped with your plants or bulbs. Please supply a street address for delivery. Kindly contact us with two weeks notice, if you'll be away at expected time of delivery.
We guarantee to ship plants that are in prime condition for growing. If your order is damaged or fails to meet your expectations, we will cheerfully replace or refund it. Please contact our Customer Service Department at 1-800-503-9624 or email us at [email protected]. Please include your order number or customer number when contacting us.
Average Customer Rating: (26 Reviews) Write a Review
Bunkeybear from Rochester, NY
We have used these particular shrubs both as foundation plantings and in our woodland gardens. With the foundation plantings, the lime adds a pink to purple color which makes them outstanding all summer long. In our woodland garden, the acid soil gives the Endless Summer the cool blues which we love. In the five years we've had them, not once has our formidable deer population nibbled on them. Endless Summuer doesn't get out of bounds. This is critical in an area of limited space. We love these shrubs and we hope that you will, too.
Redpeg from Poughkeepsie, NY
I planted two of these in partial sun/shade and within 2 weeks they had doubled in size and had beautiful multiple blooms. We were anxious to see what color they would bloom. Mine are a gorgeous blue. Our deer population has steered clear of them. I am going to definitely plant a few more next year!
Rani from Manassas, VA
I planted three of these and then had to move away due to a miltary transfer. I was afraid they would be dead when I returned because they received no TLC from my renters. When I came back, they were beautiful and healthy! I was so happy to see them loaded with blooms and thriving. These are very hardy plants and have been blooming all summer. They do wilt in the afternoon in hot sun but perk right back up when the temperature drops a bit.
nogreenthumb from NJ
I have grown this Hydrangea in a pot for the last three years. It does outrageously well sitting on a porch step where it receives mid-morning to late afternoon sun. Watered only when dry, it has had continous blooms from late May to September for the past three years. It overwinters in the basement under grow lights given water once a week. I couldn't be happier with this plant.
Latin Name Pronunciation: hye-dran'jee-uh
Growing H. macrophylla
Some Hydrangea macrophylla varieties flower on old wood, and must carry their flower buds through the winter. Early or late freezes may damage flower buds and prevent them from blooming. For example, in Zone 5, bloom may only succeed 3 years out of 5, but the plant itself is hardy there. Fortunately for gardeners in cooler zones, recent introductions will likely bloom for them, as they flower on new growth as well as year-old stems.
Light/Watering: Most varieties tolerate full sun in the North, but benefit from afternoon shade. In the South, plants require afternoon shade. Moist soils that do not dry out are best; do not plant in hot, dry, exposed sites. Mulch to conserve moisture and buffer soil temperatures.
Fertilizer/Soil and pH: Fertilize once in spring with a fertilizer designed to encourage blooms (such as 15-30-15). In many H. macrophylla varieties, flower color is determined by the pH of the soil; at low pH (acid soils) flowers will be blue and at higher pH, flowers will be pink. Generally, a pH below 5.0 results in deep, vivid blues and as the pH rises the flowers range from blue to lavender to mauve to a vivid deep pink at pH 7.0 (neutral). The pH determines the availability of aluminum in the soil; this element is more readily available in acid soils, and this availability results in the blue flower color. Since phosphorus ties up aluminum in soils, using a fertilizer low in this nutrient will aid in attaining blue flowers. If pink flowers are desired and your soil is acid, simply add lime to raise the pH and use a balanced fertilizer. Aluminum sulfate will lower pH if blue flowers are desired.
How to test your soil?
We recommend that you visit your local Cooperative Extension Service to find out about soil testing in your area. Follow this link for a directory of institutions involved in the Cooperative Extension program.
We also offer a Soil pH Meter, which allows you to test your soil and provides quick, accurate results.
For our complete selection of Hydrangea growing supplies, click here.
Pests/Diseases: None serious. Occasionally powdery mildew will infect the foliage, especially in humid areas with poor air circulation. Treat with an appropriate fungicide if the problem is serious, and be sure to rake up and destroy all fallen foliage in the autumn.
Pruning: If your Hydrangea is growing too large, prune to the desired size by the end of August. In spring, only prune out dead wood once the new growth has emerged. This includes H. m. 'Big Daddy,' H. m. Cityline® Mars, H. m. Cityline® Rio, H. m. Cityline® Venice, H. m. Color Fantasy®, H. m. Double Delights™ Star Gazer, H. m. Everlasting™ Amethyst, H. m. 'Lady in Red,' H. m. Light-O-Day®, H. m. 'Nikko Blue,' H. m. Pink Shira™, and Paraplu®. These varieties bloom on old wood.
For mophead varieties blooming on both old and new wood, by the end of August cut back stems by about half if plants are growing too tall. Remove some of the oldest stems at ground level to thin out the shrub as needed. In spring, only prune out dead wood once the new growth has emerged. This includes H. m. 'Blushing Bride,' H. m. Double Delights™ Star Gazer, H. m. Endless Summer®, H. m. Endless Summer® Bloomstruck™, H. m. Everlasting® Revolution, H. m. Let's Dance® Big Easy, Let's Dance® Blue Jangles®, H. m. Let's Dance® Moonlight, Let's Dance® Rave™, H. m. Let's Dance® Starlight, H. m. Mystical® Opal, H. m. Nantucket Blue™, H. m. Pistachio, and H. m. Twist-n-Shout™.
Reflowering: Regularly deadheading the spent blooms of H. macrophylla that bloom on both old and new wood helps encourage repeat bloom on the current year's growth.
Transplanting: Young plants may be transplanted when dormant in early spring.
End of Season Care: Rake up and destroy any fallen foliage that was infected by powdery mildew or other fungi. For gardeners in Zone 5, we recommend covering the stems with a 12” layer of organic material such as straw or mulched leaves to help preserve the flower buds through the cold winter. In addition, you may wrap your Hydrangea with burlap to protect it from winds and cold temperatures.
Calendar of Care
Mid-Spring: Prune out any dead wood from all varieties. Check soil pH and adjust up or down if needed for desired flower color. Feed plants with a fertilizer high in phosphorus (such as 15-30-15) to encourage blooms. Complete any transplanting before leaves unfurl. Mulch plants after soil has warmed to conserve moisture and buffer soil temperatures. Watch for powdery mildew and treat as needed.
Fall: Remove and destroy any fallen foliage that was infected by powdery mildew. In Zone 5, cover the stems with a 12” layer of organic material such as straw or mulched leaves to help flower buds overwinter. You may also wrap your Hydrangea with burlap to protect it from winds and cold temperatures.
For more information on growing Hydrangeas, click here.