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The spectacularly ruffled blossoms of Iris germanica 'Decadence' contrast effervescent yellow standards against purple-burgundy falls with tangerine beards, their extravagantly frilly edges accentuated in cream. The large blooms appear on a great garden performer that has won multiple awards, including the Wister Medal, which is the highest award for a Tall Bearded Iris.
Named after the distinctive fuzzy beards upon their lower petals, or falls, Bearded Iris grow from modified stems called rhizomes, which extend horizontally in the soil and send out roots and shoots from nodes. The American Iris Society has classified them into six groups differentiated mainly by height, from the Miniature Dwarf Bearded Iris (up to 8" tall) to the Tall Bearded Iris (27½" tall or more). The huge array of Bearded Iris cultivars includes flowers of every possible color. Here in Connecticut, they bloom in June, with some varieties occasionally sending forth a second round of blossoms in summer or early fall. Plenty of sun and good drainage are the primary requirements for success. Bearded Iris will repeat their lavish display for many years.
The Iris genus is named for the Greek goddess of the rainbow, and it’s easy to see why. These brilliantly colored, spring-flowering perennials are part of a huge plant family that contains upwards of 300 species. Iris range from timid and inconspicuous wildlings to the splendid and extravagant Tall Bearded Iris, which create striking vertical highlights in the late spring border. The chosen habitats of Iris range from standing water to formal borders, and there is scarcely a color or combination of colors that can't be found. Iris plants are fairly indestructible. They thrive in most parts of the country and are largely critter resistant. Adding to their appeal, they are attractive to hummingbirds and other pollinators. Plant a variety and enjoy a rainbow of colors that will return year after year in your garden.
For more information on growing Iris, click Growing Guide.
Shipping
HOW PLANTS ARE SHIPPED
The size of the plants we ship has been selected to reduce the shock of transplanting. For some, this means a large, bareroot crown. Others cannot travel bareroot or transplant best if grown in containers. We ship these perennials and annuals in 1 pint pots, except as noted. We must point out that many perennials will not bloom the first year after planting, but will the following year, amply rewarding your patience. We ship bulbs as dormant, bare bulbs, sometimes with some wood shavings or moss. Shrubs, Roses, vines, and other woody plants may be shipped bareroot or in pots. The size of the pot is noted in the quick facts for each item.
WHEN WE SHIP
We ship our bulbs and plants at the right time for planting in your area, except as noted, with orders dispatched on a first-come, first-served basis by climate zone. We also ship a wide range of containers and planters, tools, supplies, fertilizers, garden wear, garden decor items, as well as indoor decorations like wreaths and dried bouquets when available. Estimated dates for shipping are indicated in the green Shipping Details box for each item. Please supply a street address for delivery. Kindly contact us with two weeks notice, if you'll be away at the expected time of delivery.
OUR GUARANTEE
We guarantee to ship plants that are in prime condition for growing. If your order is damaged or fails to meet your expectations, we will cheerfully replace or refund it. Please contact our Customer Service Department at 1-800-503-9624 or email us at [email protected]. Please include your order number or customer number when contacting us.
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Growing guide
Flamboyant blooms on stately, splendid plants grace the garden in June. Bearded Irises are available in a veritable rainbow of colors, from vibrant primaries, to subtle bicolors and gentle pastels. Breeders have introduced a variety of reblooming Irises, which have a tendency to flower again from late summer into fall depending on climate and growing conditions. Please note that Bearded Irises may not bloom the first year after planting.
Light/Watering: Full sun and well-drained soil are important for vigorous growth and flowering. Do not overwater, as too much moisture in the soil can cause the rhizomes (roots) to rot, but do water deeply during summer drought. Consistent watering is especially important for reblooming Irises.
Fertilizer/Soil and pH: Iris will not tolerate soils that are wet in winter. Good drainage is important all year, and a pH near neutral (7.0) is preferred. In climates with very hot summers, plant the rhizome just below the soil surface; in cooler climates, the top of the rhizome should be exposed. Do not mulch around the rhizome as this practice may encourage rot. Fertilize in early spring with an all-purpose fertilizer scratched in around the plants, avoiding direct contact with the rhizome. Reblooming Irises perform best if fertilized again after the first wave of flowering is finished.
Pests/Diseases: The Iris borer, the worst pest of these lovely plants, overwinters as eggs in spent leaves, so don't give the critters a hiding place. The borers emerge in the spring as tiny caterpillars, which spend a couple of weeks boring through the leaves down into the rhizome, where they grow fat and cause great damage, often leading to soft rot that causes even more damage. Vigilance can help—it's actually possible to kill the borers in situ if you catch them early enough. You'll see vertical streaks in the leaves; that's your guide to help you squash the pests. If you see any signs of rot in the rhizome, dig it up and remove the affected parts. Unless the infestation is severe, plants usually recover, or grow lustily enough that you can salvage healthy chunks to keep growing. The rhizomes may also become infected with soft rot. Well-drained soils are important, so add sand if your soil is heavy and plant so that the top of the rhizome is above the soil line. If soft rot does occur, dig out and discard affected rhizomes and cut away any smaller areas of damage.
Companions: Irises are best planted in groups, surrounded – but not crowded – by other perennials. They are lovely blooming with Lilies, Herbaceous Peonies, Roses, and Oriental Poppies. Perennials will conceal spent Iris foliage in summer. Make sure to leave room between plants to provide for good air circulation.
Reflowering: The buds on Tall Bearded Iris are spaced at intervals along the stems, and they flower sequentially. Remove spent blooms consistently. After the blossoms have subsided, cut the flower stems at the base and remove them. Reblooming varieties may produce new flower spikes 4-8 weeks after the first flush of bloom, but reblooming is not guaranteed. It will depend on the Iris variety as well as climate, growing conditions, cultural practices, and geography (rebloom is unlikely in regions of the country with a short growing season).
Dividing/Transplanting: Divide your Iris when the clump becomes crowded and bloom diminishes, usually every 3 to 4 years. (Reblooming varieties may need to be divided more frequently, every 2 to 3 years.) The timing of division is very different from that of most perennials. Bearded Iris go dormant shortly after flowering, which makes summer the ideal time to dig up the rhizomes. Even though reblooming Irises don't go dormant, this is also the correct time to divide those varieties. Break the rhizomes into pieces or cut them with a sharp knife. Select divisions with a healthy fans of leaves, most likely from the outermost part of the plant. Discard the crowded interior pieces and any that show signs of soft rot; dispose of these in the trash, not in the compost. Trim the leaves back to about 6” in height. Some gardeners like to dust the cut surfaces with powdered sulfur while others dunk rhizomes in a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water. We haven't found this step necessary, but it might be advisable if you have had problems with rot. Replant promptly. You will probably find yourself with extra divisions you can share with friends.
End-of-Season Care: After hard frost in the fall, cut foliage back hard, remove any foliage that appears spotted or yellowed and dispose of all debris in the trash. We recommend winter protection in cold climates, especially for the first winter after planting. We suggest covering the rhizomes with an inch or two of sand topped with a light layer of evergreen boughs, applied after the ground freezes and removed when the Forsythias bloom the following spring.
Calendar of Care
Early Spring: Diligently remove and destroy any old foliage to allow for fresh, new growth and prevent Iris borers from emerging as the weather warms. Remove any winter mulch. Feed plants with an all-purpose fertilizer scratched in around the plants, avoiding direct contact with the rhizome.
Mid-Spring: Watch vigilantly for the telltale signs of Iris borers in the foliage -- dark vertical lines that may appear watery show up in the leaves. Squash the bugs where they live; if infestation is severe, remove affected foliage completely and destroy.
Late Spring: Taller forms may need staking. Deadhead as flowers fade, and cut entire flower spikes down at the base when blooming is finished. Fertilize reblooming varieties again after the first wave of flowering is through.
Summer: If plants need dividing, complete this task after flowering finishes and then trim the foliage back to six inches. Water divisions well during dry periods.
Fall: After hard frost in the fall, cut foliage back hard, remove any foliage that appears spotted or yellowed, and dispose of all debris in the trash. Winter protection in cold climates is recommended, especially for the first winter after planting. After the ground freezes, cover the rhizomes with an inch or two of sand topped with a light layer of evergreen boughs; remove when the Forsythias bloom the following spring.
