The most flamboyant personalities in the world of Lilies are to be found among the Oriental hybrids, with their huge flowers, intense fragrance, and rich colors. If your garden seems dull in late summer, jazz it up with this enticing mixture of late bloomers. Enormous flowers in vibrant shades of white, crimson, and pink appear on straight stems in July and August. The show is breathtaking, the perfume intoxicating—especially as the sun dips below the horizon. In this mix, the stems heights vary from 3′–5′, and the flowers may be bowl-shaped or flat-faced, sometimes with recurved petals. Use these spectacular Lilies to fill spaces in flower borders or indulge yourself and plant a dozen or two in the cutting garden, for they make the most extravagant bouquets. Bulbs are not individually labeled. 12 bulbs cover 12 sq ft.
Lilies are one of the truly great garden plants. Their beauty, diversity, extended season of bloom, exquisite fragrance, graceful stature, and reliable disposition reflect the fruits of hundreds of years of selective breeding. Your garden should not be without them, whether you manage acres of mixed borders or a few pots on a city balcony.
Lilies prefer cool soil, which argues for shade at their feet from low-growing companions such as Ferns, Geraniums, or Hellebores. Plant Lilies in well-drained soil where they will receive 6–8 hours of sun a day. Delicate and graceful Species Lilies carry their flowers on candelebra-shaped stems and are generally more tolerant of shade. When cutting the flowers for bouquets, remove no more than 1/3 of the stem. This provides sufficient leaves on the remaining stem to renew the bulb for the coming year.
For more information on the growing and care of Lilium, click on Growing Guide.
HOW PLANTS ARE SHIPPED
The size of the plants we ship has been selected to reduce the shock of transplanting. For some, this means a large, bareroot crown. Others cannot travel bareroot or transplant best if grown in containers. We ship these perennials and annuals in 1 pint pots, except as noted. We must point out that many perennials will not bloom the first year after planting, but will the following year, amply rewarding your patience. We ship bulbs as dormant, bare bulbs, sometimes with some wood shavings or moss. Shrubs, Roses, vines, and other woody plants may be shipped bareroot or in pots. The size of the pot is noted in the quick facts for each item.
WHEN WE SHIP
We ship our bulbs and plants at the right time for planting in your area, except as noted, with orders dispatched on a first-come, first-served basis by climate zone. Estimated dates for shipping are indicated in the Shipping Details box for each item. Please refer to the Shipping Details box to determine the earliest shipping time. Unless you specify otherwise, fertilizers, tools, and other non-plant items are shipped with your plants or bulbs. Please supply a street address for delivery. Kindly contact us with two weeks notice, if you'll be away at expected time of delivery.
We guarantee to ship plants that are in prime condition for growing. If your order is damaged or fails to meet your expectations, we will cheerfully replace or refund it. Please contact our Customer Service Department at 1-800-503-9624 or email us at [email protected]. Please include your order number or customer number when contacting us.
Average Customer Rating: (27 Reviews) Write a Review
Ann, the painter from Central Masasachusetts
This was their first year and I was overwhelmed by the show. The blossoms are huge! I can't wait for next summer. They need to be staked to hefty stakes.
My neighbors loved the fragrance in the evenings.
Sandwich Cake from New York, NY
These lilies are some of the best purchases I have made from WFF in 2009. Big, healthy bulbs grew quickly and created showy flowers the first year. All survived winter and have begun to return in April 2010.
Kat from Massachusetts
This was the second time I've ordered the mix. Most years I get beautiful flowers and they are spreading in the garden. But this year--disaster! We were away and the deer came to dine. In addition to 50 hostas, they ate all the tops off all but 3 lilies. Clearly they loved these lilies as much as we do. As for the lily beetles, they seen to have looked for other gardens--the Neem oil spray took care of them and I have beautiful healthy stems and leaves. So hopefully next year, blossoms galore.
AndaO from Ranger, GA
I planted my first ever lily bed last year using a variety of WFF lily mixes. The bed was beautiful even that first bloom time. We had a VERY harsh winter in Georgia and I lost about 2/3rds of my original plants. I have re-ordered and re-planted. The third of the bed that made it through the winter is just spectacular! I am going to take extra care to protect the bed over this winter and can't wait until next year when it is all in bloom. The stems are very strong and none of mine have needed staking. The blooms last for days, even in 90 degree plus heat.
Bulb size: 18-20 cm
Lilies produce spectacular trumpet-shaped flowers atop strong stems that arise from bulbs made up of scale-like segments. Heights vary according to variety, ranging from 2 feet to 6 feet or so. All are elegant in the perennial border and shorter varieties may be successfully grown in pots. Those types close to the species are lovely for naturalizing. Lilies are indispensable for cutting, and a single stem in a vase makes a classic statement; remove stamens to avoid contact with the pollen, which may cause stubborn stains. Plant in an area sheltered from strong winds, and plan on staking the taller types.
Light/Watering: Most of today's Lilies prefer full sun but will flower in partial shade, which may also help the blooms retain their color. Some of the species Lilies and their kin prefer afternoon shade, and require it in the hottest climates. Lilies thrive with regular watering, especially during periods of summer drought.
Fertilizer/Soil and pH: Lily bulbs will not survive if soils are poorly drained, especially in the winter months. Some will form roots along the buried stems and will appreciate a side dressing of organic matter, and all will benefit from a summer mulch to keep roots cool. Light, loamy soils that are well drained and have a pH right around 6.0 are ideal. Plant Lily bulbs three times as deep as the bulb is high, except for L. candidum and its cultivars, which should only be covered with an inch of soil. Feed in early spring as growth emerges and again just as the flowers open. If a soil test indicates a low level of potassium, supplement with muriate of potash or a fertilizer high in this nutrient for optimum bulb and root growth.
Pests/Diseases: Gardeners in the Northeast must be on the lookout for a relatively new pest called the Lily leaf beetle, which feeds on Lily foliage, buds, and flowers in both its larval and adult form. Luckily, both life stages are easily recognized: the adult is slightly less than half-an-inch long, with a brilliant scarlet body and black head and appendages. The larvae look a bit like lumpy slugs but are orange, brown, or greenish yellow with black heads; they pile their black excrement on their backs as they feed. From March through June, look on the undersides of the leaves for the orange eggs and destroy them. Handpicking works if only a few plants are present; for a larger planting, Neem products are effective for young larvae and will deter adults, and insecticides containing spinosad will control the insect (but avoid using these when bees are active). Occasionally, aphids will infect Lilies with Lily mosaic virus, which results in yellow streaking or mottling of the leaves; this virus is mainly problematic in the species. Watch for aphids and rinse off with a forceful water spray.
Companions: Lilies do very well in the company of shallow-rooted plants, which also help to keep their roots cool. They are especially lovely rising from a bed of deep green Ferns , and many varieties flower at the same time as Roses, Peonies and Clematis.
Reflowering: Remove flowers as they fade to avoid the formation of seedpods (this directs energy back to the bulb, rather than to seeds). When all flowers have passed, cut the stem directly below the blooms, so that as much foliage is left as possible to feed the bulb. Also, when cutting flowers for the house keep the stems as short as possible for the same reason.
Dividing/Transplanting: Lily bulbs go dormant in late fall, and that is the best time to move or divide the clumps. Handle the fleshy bulbs carefully, and replant at the same depth in well-drained, friable soil. If smaller offset bulbs are present, replant these at a depth three times their height.
End of Season Care: After foliage has died back, cut stems off at ground level, or leave a few inches so you know where they are if you have fall or spring planting to do. Remove all old foliage from the garden.
Calendar of Care
Early Spring: Apply a light application of balanced fertilizer or side-dress with compost and organic amendments when new growth appears. Check potassium levels in the soil if plants appear weak. Water well if it is unseasonably dry, as plants prefer evenly moist soil.
Mid-Spring: In the Northeast, watch for Lily leaf beetle activity. From March through June look beneath the foliage for the orange or red eggs and destroy. If it is impossible to handpick the larvae and bright red adults, treat with Neem products or those containing spinosad. Watch for aphid infestations; wash off with a forceful water spray or spray with insecticidal soap. Mulch plants as soil warms to buffer soil moisture and temperature.
Late Spring: Taller forms may need staking.
Summer: Water Lilies well during dry spells. Remove flowers as they fade and when blooming is finished cut the stem right below the last bloom to leave as much foliage on the plant as possible.
Fall: Cut foliage back and remove from the garden. Clumps of Lilies may be divided or transplanted after foliage dies back in late fall.