May Romance Tulip Collection

Tulipa is an enormous genus consisting of approximately 75 species, all of which are, in their original forms, true perennials. In their native habitats (ranging from Central Asia to the Mediterranean basin) Tulips are subject to both long, cold winters and hot, bone-dry summers. The conditions in most North American gardens don't much resemble the climates in which Tulips evolved, and most modern cultivars are best grown as annuals - planted in the fall, enjoyed the following spring and then replaced. There are several groups, however, that do offer strong multi-year performance. Species Tulips, Darwin Hybrids, Fosterianas, Greigiis, Kaufmannianas, and WFF Perennial Tulips can put on a stunning display for several years with your help.

Planting:

• In the fall, at least a month before the ground freezes, plant Tulip bulbs in a sunny site with very well-drained soil. Keep Tulip bulbs cool (below 65°) until ready to plant.
• Plant top of bulb 6-8" deep, or, for smaller bulbs and Species Tulips, 4–6" deep, so they stay insulated through the winter but remain cool as temperatures begin to rise in spring. (Bulbs that are kept cool in spring tend to blossom for a longer period.)
• For the best display, avoid the "soldier effect" and plant the bulbs in clusters. Plant large bulbs 5–6" apart and smaller bulbs 2–3" apart. Small Species Tulips are ideal for rock gardens and the tall, large-flowered varieties can hold their own anywhere.

Light/Watering: Tulips perform best in full sun in the North and will tolerate very light shade in hotter areas. Unless the season is unnaturally dry, normal rainfall should suffice.

Fertilizer/Soil and pH: Tulip bulbs require a well-drained soil. Sandy soil enriched with organic matter is ideal as is a pH of 6.0 to 6.5.

Pests/Diseases: Aphids may be a problem but are easily washed off with a water spray. If you notice spindly stems and white or yellowish mottling or streaking of the foliage suspect a virus and dig up and destroy the bulb. Occasionally an amber gel-like substance called gummosis is present on Tulip bulbs. It is not harmful and will not affect the bulbs' performance.

Companions: Tulips are lovely with other spring bloomers and with each other. Mertensia virginica is a sweet companion and Tulips are perfect planted beneath ground covers like Epimedium or Vinca. Underplant Tulips with Forget-me-nots for a classic combination.

Pruning: Direct energy to the Tulip bulb by removing spent blooms prior to developing seed capsules.

Cutting Flower Stems: Cut Tulip stems at the base of the plant during the coolest part of the day and when the bud is closed, but the color is visible. Re-cut the stems at a 45° angle underwater to prevent air bubbles from entering the stem’s vascular system, which can block water uptake. Tulips prefer cool, fresh water—not warm. Change the water daily to reduce bacterial buildup. Keep Tulip bouquets away from ripening fruit, especially apples and bananas. Ethylene gas emitted by fruit will shorten the flowers’ vase life.

If cutting perennial tulip stems, leave at least 2 to 3 individual leaves per bulb. Each leaf is a valuable energy source that helps recharge the bulb for next year’s bloom. Removing too many leaves deprives the bulb of the energy it needs to rebuild, which leads to smaller blooms or no flowers the next year.

Tips to Help Ensure Yearly Rebloom of Perennial Varieties:

• Remove blooms (on all but the species Tulips) as soon as they fade to prevent the formation of seeds.
• Allow the leaves to yellow before removing them.
• Follow the tips above when cutting flower stems for bouquets
• Fertilize in fall and early spring with any of our fertilizers specifically formulated for bulbs.
• Tulips will also perform more reliably if they are not watered during their summer dormancy.

Calendar of Care

Early Spring: Fertilize bulbs now with a suitable formulation.

Mid-Spring: Enjoy the show and cut flowers for gorgeous bouquets. Watch for aphids and wash off if present.

Summer: Deadhead Tulip plants to remove developing seed capsules. Do not water Tulip beds, as most varieties prefer to stay dry in summer, and keep beds weeded. Do not remove foliage until it has yellowed completely.

Fall: Plant new bulbs at least a month before the ground freezes and water in. Check pH and adjust to 6.0 to 6.5. Fertilize established plantings now.

In parts of the country where winters are mild, Tulips may not receive enough natural cold to stimulate proper growth and flowering. We recommend treating these as annuals and replacing them with new bulbs every year. If you’d like to prechill bulbs during winter, you can do so by placing them in a refrigerator, away from fruits and vegetables (these produce ethylene gas, which can harm the embryonic flowers inside the bulbs). Make sure the bulbs remain dry. The usual prechilling time is ten weeks or longer at 40 to 45°F. Once the bulbs are removed from cold treatment, plant them right away. Bloom occurs about six to eight weeks after planting. Discard the entire plant after bloom.

Some Tulip varieties are excellent for forcing. Rooting time is from fourteen to sixteen weeks. More information on forcing bulbs may be found on our website.