A vigorous deciduous vine from Japan and Korea whose heart-shaped foliage and large white clusters of June flowers make it an attractive covering for a wall, fence, or large tree. In sun or shade (afternoon shade is required in the Deep South and in western Zones 9 and 10) and in moist but well-drained soil, it will eventually grow to 40′ or more (it’s a bit slow starting).
Plants have lateral branches that grow out as much as 3′ from the supporting structure, giving a rich, deep texture that is quite unlike that of other vines. The dried flower heads and reddish brown, peeling bark are attractive in winter. Produces aerial roots that cling to its support. Not well adapted to the dry heat of desert regions. Blooms on old wood.
Hydrangea is a valuable genus of some 100 species of shrubs and vines grown for their large and very showy flower heads. Hydrangeas are at their best in summer and fall—a quiet time for most woody plants—and are worth having for that reason alone. For more information on Hydrangea care, click on Growing Guide.
HOW PLANTS ARE SHIPPED
The size of the plants we ship has been selected to reduce the shock of transplanting. For some, this means a large, bareroot crown. Others cannot travel bareroot or transplant best if grown in containers. We ship these perennials and annuals in 1 pint pots, except as noted. We must point out that many perennials will not bloom the first year after planting, but will the following year, amply rewarding your patience. We ship bulbs as dormant, bare bulbs, sometimes with some wood shavings or moss. Shrubs, Roses, vines, and other woody plants may be shipped bareroot or in pots. The size of the pot is noted in the quick facts for each item.
WHEN WE SHIP
We ship our bulbs and plants at the right time for planting in your area, except as noted, with orders dispatched on a first-come, first-served basis by climate zone. Estimated dates for shipping are indicated in the Shipping Details box for each item. Please refer to the Shipping Details box to determine the earliest shipping time. Unless you specify otherwise, fertilizers, tools, and other non-plant items are shipped with your plants or bulbs. Please supply a street address for delivery. Kindly contact us with two weeks notice, if you'll be away at expected time of delivery.
We guarantee to ship plants that are in prime condition for growing. If your order is damaged or fails to meet your expectations, we will cheerfully replace or refund it. Please contact our Customer Service Department at 1-800-503-9624 or email us at [email protected]. Please include your order number or customer number when contacting us.
Average Customer Rating: (6 Reviews) Write a Review
WHITERABBIT from NEW YORK
FOLLOWED INSTRUCTIONS ON PLANTING AND CARE COMPLETELY...PLANT PUT OUT SOME LEAVES, ALL TURNED BROWN, DRIED UP AND FELL OFF. WHEN I CALLED FOR HELP THE WOMAN IN HORTICULTURE TOLD ME TO "WRAP THE PLANT IN PLASTIC" TO KEEP IT DRY....
NO REAL HELP FROM WFF...PLANT IS BASICALLY DEAD....
VERY DISAPPOINTING...WE WERE SO EXCITED TO GROW IT! HELP WOULD HAVE BEEN NICE AND MIGHT HAVE SAVED THE PLANT....
Patient Gardener from Washington DC
I have a shady yard, so finding a flowering climber has been hard. I have two plants, both planted at the base of twin tulip poplars. The oldest, planted several years ago, is about 20' high. The flowers are not the typical hydrangea "balls" but are delicate white shoots - lovely! When planted at a tree base, make sure it gets enough water in its first year, especially in summer, as it will compete with the tree roots. Takes a few years to bloom, but it's well worth the wait!
Mabelino from Crofton, Maryland
I bought this locally, not from WFF, but I really like it. I had it growing on a fence but it wasn't doing much so I moved it to the base of a tree, and once it got established it really took off. (Took several years to really establish, but I had benn told beforehand this would be so.) It is about 30 feet now, blooms liberally in the spring if fed in March, has interesting and beautiful foliage and the branches, which have wrapped all the way around the tree as if in an embrace, are also loverly when bare. I am glad I trusted this plant to flourish, I enjoy watching it from my house and my rear garden both.
DoubleDeuce from New Rochelle, NY
At first I was dissipointed that it was slow to take off but after a season it has really started to grow, more than double it's size this year already and wrapping itself nicely around the base of a old maple tree
Alissa from Bristol, CT
I just bought this among other plants this spring 2012, I've had it in the ground for about a month (actually bought two plants). I have a shady yard, and a rock wall that I thought would look really pretty with this plant on it. I read that it takes several years to establish, I hope it's worth the wait!
I did have a difficult time planting this little guy because our soil is very rocky and the spot I picked is also has many roots. It's been in the ground for a month and it's surviving--so I'm pleased thus far.
Growing H. anomala petiolaris
Climbing Hydrangea (H. anomala petiolaris) will grow and flower even in a northern exposure. This large, heavy vine has lateral branches that will grow out as much as 3′ from the supporting structure. It is superb for growing up the trunk of large shade trees, walls, or along a stonewall. The reddish brown, peeling bark is attractive in winter. Although growth is slow the first couple of years after planting, this species is vigorous once established. Blooming usually begins in 3–5 years.
Light/Watering: Most varieties thrive in full sun in the North, but in the South require afternoon shade. Moist soils that do not dry out are best; do not plant in hot, dry, exposed sites. Mulch to conserve moisture and buffer soil temperatures.
Fertilizer/Soil and pH: Fertilize once in spring with a fertilizer designed to encourage blooms (such as 15-30-15). Soils should be moist but well drained, and rich in organic matter.
Pests/Diseases: None serious. Occasionally powdery mildew will infect the foliage, especially in humid areas with poor air circulation. Treat with an appropriate fungicide if the problem is serious, and be sure to rake up and destroy all fallen foliage in the autumn.
Pruning: Remove any dead wood in early spring. Prune as needed after flowering. Blooms on old wood.
Transplanting: Young plants may be transplanted when dormant in early spring. Prune top growth after transplanting to reduce water loss.
End of Season Care: Rake up and destroy any fallen foliage that was infected by powdery mildew or other fungi.
Calendar of Care
Early Spring: Prune as indicated above. Feed plants with a fertilizer high in phosphorus (such as 15-30-15) to encourage blooms. Complete any transplanting before leaves unfurl.
Mid-Spring: Mulch plants after soil has warmed to conserve moisture and buffer soil temperatures. Watch for powdery mildew and treat as needed.
Fall: Remove and destroy any fallen foliage that was infected by powdery mildew.
For more information on growing Hydrangeas, click here.