Rose 'William Baffin'
Rose 'William Baffin'

Rose 'William Baffin'

Shipment begins in Spring 2019

SKU: S66695
1 for $35.95
10 Reviews
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Quick Facts
Common Name: Climbing Rose
Hardiness Zone: 3-8S/10W Exposure: Sun
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Blooms In: Jun-Sep
Height: 10' Spacing: 6-10'
Read our Growing Guide Ships as: BAREROOT
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Shipping Details Shipment begins in mid March 2019, depending on your zone. See shipping tab for details

Product Details

Product Details

This climber has yet to receive the attention it deserves. It bears semidouble, deep pink flowers in abundance in late June, with recurrent bloom well into fall. It is also exceptionally vigorous and hardy, the only recurrent climber available to gardeners in Zones 3 and 4. Destined to become one of the most enduring Roses of our era. Own-root.

Tip: We use Organic Gem® as a foliar feed on Rose bushes in our trial garden and find plants are healthier and perform better throughout the season.




The size of the plants we ship has been selected to reduce the shock of transplanting. For some, this means a large, bareroot crown. Others cannot travel bareroot or transplant best if grown in containers. We ship these perennials and annuals in 1 pint pots, except as noted. We must point out that many perennials will not bloom the first year after planting, but will the following year, amply rewarding your patience. We ship bulbs as dormant, bare bulbs, sometimes with some wood shavings or moss. Shrubs, Roses, vines, and other woody plants may be shipped bareroot or in pots. The size of the pot is noted in the quick facts for each item.


We ship our bulbs and plants at the right time for planting in your area, except as noted, with orders dispatched on a first-come, first-served basis by climate zone. Estimated dates for shipping are indicated in the Shipping Details box for each item. Please refer to the Shipping Details box to determine the earliest shipping time. Unless you specify otherwise, fertilizers, tools, and other non-plant items are shipped with your plants or bulbs. Please supply a street address for delivery. Kindly contact us with two weeks notice, if you'll be away at expected time of delivery.


We guarantee to ship plants that are in prime condition for growing. If your order is damaged or fails to meet your expectations, we will cheerfully replace or refund it. Please contact our Customer Service Department at 1-800-503-9624 or email us at [email protected]. Please include your order number or customer number when contacting us.



Average Customer Rating: (10 Reviews) Write a Review

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Love it

Jeanne Ray from Hutchinson, Minnesota

planted in fall of 2016. This year it bloomed and has grown over 6 foot tall with multiple branches.

3 of 3 people found this review helpful. Do you? yes no  Certified buyer

My most reliable rose

A viewer from mid-Michgan

I bought a William Baffin rose about 15 years ago and have never regretted the purchase. It is planted in back of my deck and gets full sun. In my zone 5b garden it blooms profusely for about 5 weeks, usually from Memorial Day to about July 4. After that, blooms are sporadic until frost.

In most years my roses get an application of wood ashes in the winter, composted horse manure in the spring, and some organic rose fertilizer in June. I mulch with a few inches of finely ground hardwood, but otherwise, don't cover the roses for winter. In many winters, roses are eaten by rabbits, deer, voles, etc., so I often have to prune roses heavily in early spring to get rid of canes that have been girded; but William Baffin doesn't seem to mind. It has never failed to bloom beautifully, and except for an occasional Japanese beetle, does not seem to be bothered by pests or diseases. In the meantime I have lost at least half of the other roses I have purchased from WFF or others, including antique roses, David Austin roses, rugosa roses, and Knockout roses to diseases, pests, or critter damage.

William Baffin has sent out some suckers, but I have not minded, because it was planted in a site with room to spare. After about 15 years it is now about 10' wide and will likely be about 8' tall when it blooms in June. I love this rose and highly recommend it, if you have room for a rose this size.

13 of 13 people found this review helpful. Do you? yes no

love this rose

Martha Packard from western ma

I put in two of these roses over a decade ago. I'm a lazy gardener and only the toughest stuff has a place in my messy, wild Eden. These two are the backbone of it. They bloom magnificently with very little care and are taller than I am, easily six feet or more. Love this rose.

15 of 15 people found this review helpful. Do you? yes no

Best climbing rose ever

Chloe S from Albany, NY

I bought my William Baffin rose from WFF about 8 years ago, and loved it. I had it by the gate of our white fence, where it did not get full sun all day, but still thrived, and was a prolific bloomer. The flowers keep on coming. Unfortunately, I had to move it while it was in full bloom for the fence and gate to be replaced. I cut it way back but don' t know if it will come back - we'll see. Since I can't live without it, I'll wait until these are back in stock to get a new one. I have had to prune to keep the gate entrance clear, but generally it keeps its shape with VERY minimal pruning. I have another climbing rose in another spot in the yard that is a nightmare to keep in shape, but William Baffin is very well behaved! No cons at all to this hardy climber.

42 of 45 people found this review helpful. Do you? yes no

A tried and true stalwart

Kitty from Littleton, MA

I love my Willliam Baffin roses. I have them about 3 feet away from the road, and they get splashed all winter with snow, ice, and road salt. Yet come spring, they always push up new canes and bloom like crazy on both new and old wood. They are a little bit coarse for a mixed herbaceous border, but as a tall screen ( they reach 9 feet in my zone 5b garden), they are unbeatable. They can be pruned or not, as you need. Be careful when you prune for the very numerous and sharp thorns. The first flush of blooms is just magnificent - they are smothered with beautiful bright pink blooms. After that, they produce intermittent blooms for the rest of the summer. The bushes are vase-shaped and attractive even when they are not covered with flowers. For a carefree screen, they can't be beat.

55 of 55 people found this review helpful. Do you? yes no

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Growing guide

Growing guide

Planting: Before planting a bareroot Rose, remove and discard the packing material and soak the roots for a few hours. Then dig a planting hole that allows sufficient room for the depth and spread of the roots. (If you’re planting a Climbing Rose, locate the hole so that the base of the Rose will be about 1′ from the foot of the trellis.) Discard 1/3 of the soil dug from the hole and replace it with at least as much organic matter—such as compost, aged manure, or leafmold—and mix this into the remaining soil. Next, set the plant in the hole so that the bud union (the bulge where the top was grafted onto the rootstock) or the point where the first branch leaves the main stem (on Roses that were not grafted) is 3″ below the surrounding soil in the North, and at the same level or an inch above the soil in mild-winter climates. Then push the mix of soil and organic matter back into the hole, tamping firmly as you go. Water thoroughly. Mound soil around the canes to a height of 12–15″. This prevents the canes from drying out in the sun and wind. Check the canes every couple of days, and remove the mounded soil gradually once new growth appears.

Light/Watering: Roses grow best where they receive at least six hours of direct sun per day; more sun means more blooms and prevents leaning, leggy plants. Newly planted Roses need the equivalent of one inch of water per week throughout their first growing season. If water doesn't fall from the sky, you must supply it. A generous layer of organic mulch (compost or composted manure is best) helps keep the soil evenly moist. If weather is dry in the fall, be sure to water Roses well. Never allow the foliage to remain wet into the evening; water early in the day.

Fertilizer/Soil and pH:

Roses grow more vigorously, bloom more prolifically, and show greater resistance to diseases if fertilized several times during the growing season: in early spring (except the first spring after planting), immediately after the first wave of bloom, and again in early August. Gardeners in the South and West may wish to fertilize monthly from early spring until June, pausing during the heat of summer, and fertilizing again in August and September to close out the season. We prefer natural fertilizers such as fish emulsion or seaweed extract, applied in solution, because they release their nutrients more slowly and evenly than chemical fertilizers. Roses adore composted horse manure, but so do weeds. If you're willing to face the consequences by all means provide this treat as topdressing in spring or as winter mulch, and the Roses will reward you for your efforts. Species Roses should be fertilized just once in early spring with granular fertilizer such as 10-10-10. 

Pests/Diseases: The Roses we offer were selected for their vigor and their resistance to pests and diseases. If planted and grown as we suggest, they will be healthy and healthy plants are much less troubled than plants under stress. Even if a healthy plant does suffer at the hands of a pest or disease, it will likely endure and recover without intervention on the part of the gardener. Some Roses are prone to fungus problems (such as black spot) in hot, humid areas. Cleaning up old foliage and cutting back affected canes is important for disease control. Spraying the leaves with Bordeaux mixture, a copper-based fungicide, can help once symptoms appear (follow the manufacturer's instructions) and a single application of lime sulfur applied in early spring while plants are still dormant will go far to prevent problems. Japanese beetles and Rose chafers may be handpicked or a systemic pesticide may be used. In spring, check for Rose slugs (sawfly larvae that appear as tiny, green caterpillars and skeletonize Rose foliage) and physically destroy them or spray with superfine horticultural oil.

Companions: Roses bloom at the same time as Peonies, Clematis, Delphinium, and Lilies and are ideal with many other perennials. Train non-climbing Clematis through larger shrub Roses and grow viticella and texensis Clematis varieties with the climbers.

Pruning: Prune Roses to remove deadwood, to control or direct growth, and to promote flowering. Wait until growth breaks from the canes in early spring before pruning. Deadwood can be removed at any time. Other pruning should be done in early spring on climbers, rugosas, English, and modern Roses. At that time, remove any weak or crossing branches. Remove a few of the old canes at the base of established climbers to stimulate new growth. If the Rose bush has become too tall, the stems may be cut back by one-third to one-half, pruning to an outward facing bud to direct growth away from the interior of the plant. If you grow once-blooming old-fashioned Roses, do not prune until after flowering is finished. With the exception of the rugosas, which produce attractive hips (fruits), remove the spent flowers of reblooming Roses to promote more bloom, cutting the stems back to the first large bud at the base of a set of five leaflets. Please note: 'New Dawn' reblooms best if stems are cut back to the second set of five leaflets. Grafted Roses will occasionally send up shoots from the rootstock, which should be removed as soon as noticed.

Reflowering: Many varieties of Roses available today will bloom continuously or more sporadically through the growing season. Always remove spent blooms, and cut the stems back to right above the first leaf with five leaflets. Please note: 'New Dawn' reblooms best if stems are cut back to the second set of five leaflets.

Transplanting: Roses may be moved in early spring when dormant, especially if they are young plants. Large, established Roses are more of a challenge.

End-of-Season Care: Much has been written about techniques for overwintering Roses in cold climates. In our experience, the best way to get Roses through winter is to choose plants adapted to your climate zone. That said, if you live near a Rose's cold limit and you garden on an exposed site or in an area where rapid temperature fluctuations are common, you should mound two shovelfuls of composted manure, garden soil, compost, or shredded leaves over the base of the plant in late fall after the ground freezes. Covering these mounds and the lower parts of the bushes with evergreen boughs will add protection. Pull the mounding material away from the stem as new growth emerges in spring. Do not prune Roses back in fall; wait until you see growth start along the canes in spring to prune branches injured over winter.

Calendar of Care

Early spring: Plant bareroot Roses now and transplant young Roses if needed. Check soil pH and add lime if pH is below 6.5. When new growth appears along the canes, prune established Roses to shape the bushes, remove dead or damaged tissue and open up the interior to allow for good air circulation. Remove a few of the old canes at the base of established climbers to stimulate new growth. If fungal disease is prevalent in your area, spray while dormant with Bordeaux mix, lime sulfur, or horticultural oil. Fertilize now. Gardeners in the South and West may wish to fertilize monthly from early spring until June, resuming in August and September.

Mid-Spring: Watch for Rose slugs and either handpick, spray with a superfine horticultural oil, or use a systemic insecticide. Fertilize Roses again after the first flush of flowers. Watch for shoots coming from the rootstock below the graft and remove. After the soil warms, apply a generous layer of organic mulch.

Late spring: Monitor plantings for Japanese beetles and Rose chafers and treat as needed. Watch for black spot, powdery mildew, or other foliar problems and treat with fungicides or Neem products. Water early in the day so that foliage dries off before evening sets in.

Summer: Clean up any fallen foliage and be diligent with deadheading. Continue watering if rainfall is sparse and keep Rose beds weed-free. Some varieties of Roses may need support, especially if summer thunderstorms occur in your area. As climbers send out new canes, tie them to the trellis or fence.

Fall: If you live in a cold climate and grow Roses that are not completely hardy in your area, you may wish to protect them for the winter by mounding soil or compost around the base of the plants after the ground freezes, and then adding evergreen boughs. Climbing Roses may be detached from their supports, laid down on the ground and covered with soil to get them through the winter. This procedure is viable only on the smaller climbers, but does work well with shorter Roses grown on pillars.


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